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Clutch Hub Nut


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#1 Roadrunner

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 01:18 PM

What kind of impact wrench do you guys use to remove this thing? I have a decent one that's worked well on my other bikes but this thing is really on there. The torque specs say it's supposed to be locked down to 184ft/lbs but it seems tighter than that.

Is there an electric one that can handle it, or do I need to get a freakin compressor?

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#2 froggert

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 02:20 PM

i used my air powered impact wrench, but it's capable of 1000 ft lbs in reverse. :lift

#3 Roadrunner

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 02:37 PM

Yeah, mine's rated a 7.5/Amps 300ft/lbs but it's simply not enough. I don't really want to crank on it with a cheater bar but I might not have a choice...

#4 froggert

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 04:47 PM

hmm.. is it getting full power? like not connected to the outlet with a 50' extension cord?

#5 Roadrunner

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 05:10 PM

froggert said:

hmm.. is it getting full power? like not connected to the outlet with a 50' extension cord?

Yep. Connected directly to the outlet....pain in the ass

#6 viper1

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 05:37 PM

They are on there like they were F'welded! All of mine (1098/996/749/888) were a bitch to get off! I had my impact wrench that only went to 150 lbs. and didnt budge it! I brought all of them to a freinds shop that had a gun with 200 ft lb. and it broke them all loose! Ducati puts a shit load of lock tight on them so they don't fly off! I was ready to get the cheater bar out myself but didnt have anyone there to help me....but if I did I would have done it! Good luck!

#7 bluduk01

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 07:32 AM

Also do you have the socket on an extension. They absorb alot of torque. I've never had a problem getting them off, but I also have a gun like froggert that is capable of 1000 ft lbs.

#8 jamiedaugherty

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 07:50 AM

I don't use an impact gun, just a regular old 1/2in drive breaker bar. Put the gearbox in 6th and stand on the rear brake, that holds the clutch with enough force to get the nut off. Same thing for install. Worked perfectly for me!

#9 Roadrunner

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:09 PM

Finally got it off last night. Had to freeze it with can of compressed air, then spray it with some WD40 and let it sit for about an hour. Spun right off....

#10 mrputtputt

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:18 PM

great! that's a first I heard (freeze with WD40) and I did quite a bit of search when I removed mine. (delete my post above as I misread rear wheel with clutch LOL). I ended up getting a friend to help and we "pushed down' on the breaker bar than pull up because the bike was lifting.

i'm still surprised 6th gear would have more resistance than 1st gear?
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#11 AKKutz

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 04:39 AM

next time try a clutch holding tool. I tried the impact, no luck.... Didn't have a Ducati clutch holding tool, but had thd Suzuki one... worked great, took no effort to remove. Just goes to show how simple things can get when you use the right tools!

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#12 yehduc

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:36 PM

Mine is on super tight as well. I tried my electric impact, WD40 and a cheater bar. I actually broke the home made clutch tool (using 1 metal clutch spacer disc). I designed a clutch tool using 1/2" thick 6061-T6 aluminum and had it cut out on a CNC at work. Going to attach a handle to it and give it another try tomorrow.

#13 jamiedaugherty

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 03:36 AM

mrputtputt said:

i'm still surprised 6th gear would have more resistance than 1st gear?


It's all about leverage against the rear wheel. You are trying to spin the rear wheel faster which means you have less leverage. It's also the same reason a worn out clutch will start slipping in top gear first.

#14 Open4Cycle

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:57 AM

The reason they are so tough to break loose is because the nut has permanent locktite installed from the factory. You can use heat and melt the locktite, however you risk melting the seals.

#15 Roadrunner

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 02:22 PM

AKKutz said:

next time try a clutch holding tool. I tried the impact, no luck.... Didn't have a Ducati clutch holding tool, but had thd Suzuki one... worked great, took no effort to remove. Just goes to show how simple things can get when you use the right tools!

I have the clutch holding tool.....

#16 AKKutz

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:40 PM

Clutch holding tool, and a breaker bar.... no impact.

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#17 kaution321

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 04:21 PM

jamiedaugherty said:

I don't use an impact gun, just a regular old 1/2in drive breaker bar. Put the gearbox in 6th and stand on the rear brake, that holds the clutch with enough force to get the nut off. Same thing for install. Worked perfectly for me!

Could this damage the gearing if not done properly? I went with the clutch gear holder tool route. More importantly, I've heard of that center nut coming loose after 5k miles. I know it says to torque at 200nm (which is about 160lbs) without locktite. But, we went ahead and put a thin layer of locktite just to be sure.

#18 jamiedaugherty

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 04:07 PM

kaution321 said:

Could this damage the gearing if not done properly? I went with the clutch gear holder tool route. More importantly, I've heard of that center nut coming loose after 5k miles. I know it says to torque at 200nm (which is about 160lbs) without locktite. But, we went ahead and put a thin layer of locktite just to be sure.


I don't think it's likely that you could damage the gearbox. If 170hp second gear wheelies don't break anything I doubt my 220lb fat butt hanging on a breaker bar is going to.

During install I used a torque wrench and it was pretty simple. No problems getting to the correct torque, that should do the trick unless Ducati screwed up on their spec.

#19 Sagerider

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 06:34 PM

I had the same issue with my 2007 when I replaced the stock clutch with a Surflex. Ducati did use a serious locking compound and lots of it too. I ruined one replacement nut from Motowheels because there was still some of this locking compound adhearing in the threads on the shaft. The threaded splines act like a big tap cutting the threads of the new nut and ruining the threads. There were shavings of metal coming off the replacment nut and coming back out made it worse.
I got serious and cleaned the hell out of the threads on the shaft one thread peak at a time with a razor blade cutting the old thread locker of a little at a time. Eventually I got it cleaned enough to install another nut without buggering it up. Something like $120.00 for two nuts.
The 2008 swap was much easier after having gone through the first one. I cleaned the threads the same way thread at a time and the new nut went on just fine. I tried it as I cleaned the shaft threads and if I felt it hang up I continued to clean until it went all the way smoothly.
I used Red Loctite to reassemble and so far so good.





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